The enduring legacy of Patek Philippe's perpetual calendars

The two standout complications on the Patek Philippe stand at Baselworld 2018 were editions of a complication for which the Geneva brand is justifiably famous - one a white-gold perpetual calendar Nautilus with a blue dial, the other a platinum-cased, salmon-dialled, perpetual calendar chronograph A perpetual calendar is able to account for the idiosyncrasies using complex formulas translated into intricate gears and springs that chart the relationship between the sun, moon and earth - it's cyclical in pattern and perpetual in nature The origin storyAlthough honours for designing the first perpetual calendar pocket watch go to an Englishman, Thomas Mudge, who developed one in 1762 that now resides in the British Museum, Patek Philippe have bragging rights to the first perpetual calendar in wristwatch form.

For the erudite, ergonomic and easily legible way in which the time elements are displayed, it was this design that ingrained the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar in the minds of watch collectors and enthusiasts: a linear readout for day of the week and the month and a sub dial for the date of the month and a moonphase There is also a manual-wind version, the reference 3449, of which only three were made, all in 1961.While the Patek Philippe perpetual calendars are all stand-alone references in their own right, the same calendar mechanism would also find its way into the grand complication watches, such as the reference 1518 and 2499, both perpetual calendar chronographs John Reardon, Christie's international head of watches and a renowned Patek Philippe expert, recognises the part that the new release of this year's Nautilus perpetual calendar plays in Patek's history: "As the first Nautilus with a grand complication, the release shocked and pleased the collecting community when it was announced.

This 40mm watch has a massive yet 'sporty' aesthetic on the wrist and at the same time honours its heritage with a layout with three subsidiary dials, including a moonphase at six o'clock, bridging past, present and future." The collector community was sufficiently pleased that the new reference is sold out for years to come A Patek perpetual calendar has also been the subject of the advanced research department that developed silicon escapement parts to help improve the capability of the watch. . Source