Review: Same Beast, Different Skin – The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Ref. 5235R

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Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Ref 5235R

When the Ref 5235 debuted in 2012, it became Patek Philippe’s first ever regulator wristwatch.

Interestingly, the watch (in white gold) was both impressive and divisive at the same time It was impressive – at the time – because it incorporated the fruits of Patek Philippe Advanced Research, including the Spiromax balance spring from 2006, and the Pulsomax escapement from 2008 But why was it divisive? Many felt that the styling of the watch was way too contemporary and “un-Patek”.

This year, the esteemed Geneva manufacturer releases a new version of the watch that – based on overall sentiment – is perhaps easier on the eyes Enter, the Annual Calendar Regulator Ref 5235R

The Case, Dial, and Hands

Identical to the seminal Ref.

5235G, the Ref 5235R has a case that measures a modern 40.5 mm in diameter and 10.0 mm in thickness While the case isn’t the most nuanced to emerge from Patek Philippe’s manufactory, it still is finely crafted.

The top of the case and lugs are polished to a sheen, while their sides are satin-finished for a delightful contrast On the case band are the crown at 3 o’clock, adorned with the Calatrava cross, as well as multiple recessed pushers that allow the user to adjust the calendar display.

The case design of the Ref 5235R is clean and much simpler compared to certain other Patek Philippe references

Nothing has changed on the dial of the latest Ref.

5235, except for the colour scheme The original Ref 5235G had a brushed dial that was silver toned; the Ref.

5235R has one that is dark grey in colour In addition, the minute track, along with the perimeter of the dial, sub-dials and the calendar display discs, is now rendered in black As a result, white print is used as opposed to the blue in the original to enhance legibility.

The one exception applies to the Patek Philippe marquee at 3 o’clock where the print is in black – a smart move, in our opinion, to minimise distraction For consistency, all three baton hands on the dial are also coloured white.

The two-tone dial is gorgeous though some may dislike its contemporary flair.

Black/grey dials, especially in combination with a coloured gold case, are trendy right now, which may in part explain why sentiments around the release of the Ref 5235R are more positive.

In terms of layout, the dial is perfectly balanced The calendar indications are well-integrated and nothing sticks out like a sore thumb This should probably come to no one’s surprise, as Patek Philippe has always been the master at designing uncluttered, legible dials.

While some design aspects of the dial will be universally celebrated, others will prove to be more polarising For instance, the traditionalists may find the watch with its two-tone dial to be too contemporary Others may also find the typography and the baton hands too austere and uninspiring.

But no matter one’s preferences, rest assured that the craftsmanship of the dial and []

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